Your questions answered

February 2, 2002

Just spent the last week in Nairobi - working with JCI. I was originally hoping to get a lot done on the website, but the company we bought our computer from, and who was going to set us up with an internet connection, never showed up. That's Kenya for you. I switched gears and focused instead on grant proposals. Managed to crank one out, my first ever, in one day and submit it before its deadline (which we were informed of the night before). It was for 3 Million Kenyan shillings or about $40,000, through MESP (Micro Enterprises Support Programme) funded by the Gov't of Kenya and the European Union. I guess they had some funds left over from last year and it's not a good thing to not exhaust your funding so they approached a few organizations at the last minute and asked them to submit proposals by the next day.

My poor system had gotten used to the non-hectic, stress-free lifestyle in Nunguni. It was a complete shock to my system therefore to immediately jump into hyper-productivity mode. It was worth it though, or it will be if my group's proposal gets approved. I hope to know within one month. Haven't managed to do much fun stuff this visit - been working late and going in early most days. I'm coming back in two weeks for another 1-2 week stint at the office...I wonder if the computer will have appeared by then? I'll try and get out to see a movie or something next time.

I did watch a video at the house I've been staying at, which was a treat. It's the house of the Managing Director of JCI. Works out great as I get a ride to and from the office every day. I've also had a comfy bed, hot shower every night and a tv and vcr. Talk about a shock to the system. Speaking of beds...mine in Nunguni has fleas. I've been plagued with tiny bites all over...I mean all over my body. I'm not looking forward to going back to it. I tried spraying it with Doom (like Raid, which they also have here) but it didn't do much good. I'm going to re-dip my mosquito net and let it dry on my mattress and hopefully that will take care of the problem.

Been going to church on Sunday's, when I'm in Nunguni that is. It's tough though as it's a 3-hour service, all in Kikamba. I only know basic greetings in Kikamba right now (the local language in my area) so I usually just space out or read a book (my Bible or something else I bring along). Tomorrow while still in Nairobi I'm going to go to an English service so I'm excited to know I'll actually get something out of the effort. Can't think of too much else to update about. Oh, my bat problem. Me and Mrs. Meka (my neighbor and chair lady of my women's group) devised a make-shift ceiling in my kitchen. A ceiling is there, just not finished. We put some boards up and covered the remaining holes with newspaper and duct tape. It was working great when I left a week ago...we'll see if it's held up while I've been gone. Maybe I should let it into my room...you think it eats fleas? Speaking of animals, I've got another situation that keeps me up at night. One of the cats on my compound just gave birth and has nested between the roof and ceiling in my bedroom. I can hear it scratching around and the kitties mewing loudly. Maybe they'll be out and about when I get back. That's it for now

February 20, 2002

Back in Nairobi working at JCI's offices. They got their computer but still no internet connection. The person they got the computer from is using pirated software (he actually doesn't even have the discs for us) so I'm trying to convince them to return the equipment and I'll find a reputable company to go through. It's very common here to go through a person that happens to sell computers on the side - this guy is a secondary school teacher by day. You get what you pay for in my opinion - I've never even heard of the brand of computer and monitor he sold them! Anyway...I thought I'd use this update to answer some frequently asked questions that I get from many of you in letters and email.

What do you eat? What are the main crops?

Well, let me start with the main crops. Maize (a.k.a. corn) is the biggest crop in my area. It's a bit different than the yellow corn grown in the U.S. This maize is white and the kernels are larger than the U.S. sweet corn. They do grow sweet corn here too, just in very few places. The locals don't use it, just us foreigners. The white maize stalk looks the same but as I said, the kernels are white and larger. They are also more chewy. It's used for humans as well as cattle and chickens. They mostly pluck it off the cob and boil it and serve with beans (a dish called githeri) or put it in other dishes. I've never seen them just eat it plain with some butter and salt - either off the cob or on. They do roast the cobs some times. You can get them this way from street vendors but mostly it's just a roasted cob, no butter or anything. Tastes pretty bland either way you use it.

As for what I usually eat...lots of pasta actually. I buy it in Nairobi. I also eat stews over rice or with potatoes. I usually just use veggies as I'm leery of the meat, at least in Nunguni. There is no refridgeration and the butcher shops just have the meat hanging around, literally, collecting flies. There is no shortage of veggies in my area and what I can't get there, I pick up in Nairobi. My area grows a lot of onions (red), beans of all types, tomatoes, cabbage, peas, carrots, kale, etc. Another common dish is called sukumawiki. It's kale, a very dark green leafy vegetable that is quite bitter when cooked. They boil it until soft and then sometimes fry it in lard with some chopped carrots or tomatoes. I personally don't like it much but it's always offered when you eat at someone's house so I do end up eating it often. Boiled cabbage is another common dish. Most also fry it after in lard and add shaved carrots. Not bad. For breakfast I usually either fry up an egg or I have cold cereal with long-life milk that needs no refridgeration. I buy the cereal in Nairobi. They have common U.S. brands like Kellogs Corn Flakes and even Fruity Pebbles! Very pricey but worth the splurge from time to time. For lunch I'll either have a sandwich (pb&j or grilled cheese and tomato) or pasta. For dinner I sometimes make mashed potatoes and corn or make a curry stew and have it with rice. Fruits are abundant in Nunguni too. They have lots of mangos, bananas and papayas. Pineapples, pears, apples, grapes can be bought in Nairobi as they're mostly grown out West.

What about the country's cash crops?

Mostly they grow tea and coffee. The majority gets exported. Chai is the common drink in Kenya. It's boiled milk with tea leaves thrown in and then strained out. You add lots of sugar and drink up. Many take 4-6 cups throughout the day. If you visit someone's house, they will invariably offer you chai. Maize is another big crop. Many people in the rural areas grow maize for their own use as they are subsistence farmers.

What about common animals?

On the rural shambas (farms) they usually have goats, chickens and cows. The cows are for milk, the chickens mainly for eggs although they will kill one now and then for the meat, and the goats are mainly for the meat. Nyama choma (roasted meat) is a common treat and it's usually goat meat. A butcher comes to your table after you've picked out your raw piece and carves up the roasted selection. He leaves it on the carving block and you have at it. They usually dump a pile of salt on the block and you pinch it and sprinkle as needed. Cats are common but not really treated as pets - they are strictly there to catch rats so they don't eat the stored maize. Dogs are also common but again, not as pets, they are to guard your compound.

Do people smoke or drink?

Yes, many do smoke but you generally only see it in the big towns and it's mostly men. If you smoke and you're a woman, the common opinion is you're a prostitute. Same goes for drinking. Most women don't do it publicly as they'll be treated like a prostitute. In Nairobi it's different - anything goes. But in the rural areas you rarely see women in bars. There is also a common belief here that if you're a Christian you don't drink at all. If you do then you're not really saved. No one in Nunguni knows that I drink. My Kamba tribal name is Mutheu (Moo-thay-you) and it means "clean person" so I want to keep them thinking along those lines :o) Changa and Kumikumi are illegal home-brewed alcohol and many men spend all their family's money on it. They usually use ether and other toxic substances in the brews so many people actually go blind or die from it. It's very cheap so that's why it's popular.

How are women treated?

In general, women aren't treated well in Kenya. They are just now beginning to fight for their rights. In rural areas it differs a bit with the tribe, but in general the woman does all the chores for the household and raises the children. They are expected to serve the men when they return home and have no power to make decisions regarding the household or even their own bodies. Some tribes believe in polygamy (having more than one wife) and is seen as a sign of wealth. Divorce is becoming more common but the woman gets no property, alimony or child support. She's just told to leave with the children. A man is also able to divorce his wife without a second thought. He tells her to leave and she has to or she'll be beaten. Wife/woman beating is also unfortunately common here too. Especially with the Kisii tribe out West. There are not strict laws against it and it's rarely enforced anyway. The man just bribes the police (who are the most corrupt people in the country) and it's forgotten.

Do most women work?

In Nairobi most do but in the rural areas the woman is too busy working in the shamba, cooking, and taking care of the children that there is no way she's able to get a job outside the house. Unemployment is horrible here too so many men and women, especially the youth, can't find jobs. There are thousands of AIDS orphans too. Many go to Nairobi but end up sniffing shoe glue and paw through garbage heaps looking for food. There are hundrends of thousands of these street kids. Crime is very high in Nairobi as a result. Pickpocketing is common as is mugging.

What are some common names?

Names are dependent upon tribe. The Luo usually have a last name beginning with O for example. You also have a Christian name, a tribal name and then your father's family name. For example, Mary Mutheu Malinda. The tribal name is a reflection of it's customs. For instance, if you were born in the morning your name means "morning". You're named after the time of birth or maybe the season. The mother is usually referred to by her oldest child's name (sometimes the Christian name but most often by the tribal name). For example, my mom would be Mama Roxane.

Well, that's all I have time for on this update. I'll answer some more questions in a future update. Hope everyone is doing well. Take care.

March 27, 2002

Big news....I've moved! I'm still in Nunguni, actually in the town now whereas before I was a 1 1/2 hour walk away. I'm much happier now that I'm closer to transportation to/from Nairobi and elsewhere. Plus it's my own house - I don't have to share it with anyone....human that is. I have tons of tiny ants and hordes of spiders. Ok, here's some more answers to your Frequently Asked Questions:

What languages are spoken there?

Unfortunately, English is spoken widely. It's the official language. Kiswahili is the national language. I say unfortunately as I am finding that I rarely use the Kiswahili I'm learning - it's just too easy to use English. I go to a tutor 2 hours per week and soon to be 4 hours per week (on the Peace Corps' dime). I've told myself that I need to be fluent in Kiswahili by the time I leave and use it every day while I'm here. I only know basic greetings in Kikamba, my tribal language. Not going to try and learn much more until my Kiswahili is better. I'd say my Kiswahili is "Fair". I have one week of language training in Naivasha in April so I'm using that as my momentum for increasing my commitment.

What are the different tribes?

There are many tribes in Kenya. The main ones are: Luo, Kalenjin, Kikuyu, Kamba, Coast (Swahili), Maasai, Meru and Luyhia. All have their own language. Most Kenyans speak 3 languages - their mother tongue (tribal), Kiswahili, and English. In very rural and remote areas some only know their mother tongue. When people from different tribes meet, they usually use Kiswahili. Kiswahili is also very common on the coast.

What's the difference between Swahili and Kiswahili?

Swahili is the English way to say Kiswahili. The Kamba people speak Kikamba, Meru people speak Kimeru. There is a Swahili tribe as well and they speak Kiswahili. It just also happens to be the national language.

What's the weather like?

In Nunguni it's very mild - much like Seattle. It can get hot, mid to upper 80s but there is usually a cool breeze as I'm up in the hills. It rains a lot throughout the country during the wet seasons (Nov-Dec) and (Mar-May). In Nunguni it's green all year long. I hear it gets very cold in July (probably 50s) and very hot in September. Haven't needed my fleece and most days I'm in short sleeves while others around me have on wool sweaters.

What about bugs?

Plenty and some very unusual ones. Lots of ants, flies, termites and grasshoppers. Even seen some small slugs. Lots of spiders too. Some look like your usual spiders but others are freaks of nature...truly. These "freaks" move really fast and I swear some even disappear. I've actually found a bug that creeps me out more than spiders. Not sure of its name - I call it a "hopping bug". It's a cross between a spider and grasshopper. Some are pretty big - the size of a small muffin. Really large antennae that can sense you coming. Tough to kill as they crawl but also hop...very high and far and sometimes right at you! There are poisonous bugs like scorpions and the tse tse fly but not in my area. Some spiders in my area are poisonous so I'm extra vigilant. Oh, there are mosquitos too. Not all species carry malaria but I take a weekly pill to prevent contracting it anyway. Not so many in Nunguni (I've only see 3) but there are tons in Nairobi and I always come away with at least a dozen bites per stay.

Time's running out and so are the questions. Any other questions burning in your heads that you want to ask? Shoot me a letter and ask away! Happy Easter!!