New Zealand by Campervan: From Hobbiton to Glow Worms and Galactic Surprises

THREE WEEKS. TWO ISLANDS. ONE CAMPERVAN.

New Zealand had long lingered on my travel wish list—distant, daunting, and seemingly impossible to plan. But with a little determination (and a lot of logistics), I mapped out an adventure that turned into something far richer: a journey through glowworm caves, snow-covered peaks, and unexpected friendships. From Hobbiton to Milford Sound, this trip was equal parts breathtaking and humbling. Here's how it unfolded.

NEW ZEALAND ROAD TRIP: CAMPERVAN ADVENTURE ACROSS NORTH AND SOUTH ISLANDS

New Zealand was always someplace I had in the back of my mind as an out-of-reach destination. It was so far away and there were seemingly too many places to see—how would I ever devise an itinerary to this magical land? I asked Drew if he wanted to go with me and he said yes. Yay, I'd have a travel companion. Our last trip together was Costa Rica in 2015 and I hadn't been out of the country since then. Time to break that dry spell.

PLANNING THE TRIP: FLIGHTS, ROUTE, AND CAMPERVAN LOGISTICS

I secured flights first so I'd have my dates to plan around. With so much to see spread over two islands, I knew I’d need either a car or campervan. Someone once asked why I didn’t just book a pre-packaged tour. I suppose I could, but I genuinely enjoy the planning part. It’s like putting a jigsaw puzzle together—only you’re not sure what the final picture will be.

I read blogs from travelers who had great experiences with sprinter-style campervans—tall enough to stand in, but not full RVs. I also had to factor in driving on the left side of the road, so a smaller vehicle felt safer for me and everyone else on the road.

I chose Maui Rentals. Their van was the perfect size for two people, with a tiny bathroom/wet room combo and automatic transmission. I can drive stick, but didn’t want to deal with shifting on the opposite side. Transportation: secured.

BUILDING THE ITINERARY: LOTR LOCATIONS AND SOUTH ISLAND HIGHLIGHTS

I started mapping out campsites and stops. To my delight, New Zealand has an extensive network of campgrounds across both islands. I wanted to see Lord of the Rings filming locations like the Shire and Gollum’s Pool, plus Mt. Cook and Milford Sound on the South Island. I sketched out a rough route, factoring in driving times and hikes. Most campsites didn’t require advance reservations, so I could stay flexible. Perfect.

CHANGE OF PLANS: SOLO TRAVEL, THEN A SURPRISE COMPANION

Just as I was finalizing everything, Drew backed out. Not sure if it was the idea of three weeks in a small campervan or something else, but I had decisions to make. The airfare was booked and non-refundable. He paid me back for his seat, which helped.

I decided to go anyway—despite not having traveled alone in years. I put out feelers to friends, offering to cover the campervan and even part of the airfare. Lisa said yes! She could join me for two of the three weeks. I was thrilled.

AUCKLAND ARRIVAL AND FIRST IMPRESSIONS

It was a long flight, but I had booked a sleeper bed on New Zealand Air. I lay flat in coach and had the row to myself. Lisa had flown out earlier to stay with a friend in Auckland, so I met her there. We spent one night in the city before picking up our campervan and hitting the road.

Auckland had a tropical feel but also big-city energy—skyscrapers, traffic, and a vibrant pace.

HOBBITON AND FIRST CAMPSITE EXPERIENCE

Our first stop was just outside Auckland: Hobbiton, the movie set used for the Shire in LOTR and The Hobbit. It was a little touristy, but magical. Wandering the set was lovely, and my inner child was smiling from ear to ear.

We camped nearby at a site with designated campervan spots and electric hookups. The shared cooking and shower facilities were spotless—I was impressed.

WAITOMO CAVES AND ROTORUA CULTURE

The next day we toured the Waitomo Caves, where glowworms hang from the ceilings like tiny stars. We also attended a cultural show and traditional dinner at Te Puia in Rotorua. The site features geysers, bubbling mud pools, and insights into Māori culture and crafts.

NORTH ISLAND HIGHLIGHTS: VOLCANOES, BEACHES, AND TE PAPA MUSEUM

We spent the following days exploring the North Island’s diverse landscapes—volcanoes, waterfalls, beaches. A standout was the Te Papa Museum in Wellington. Weta Studios had an exhibit called Gallipoli: The Scale of Our War. The life-like wax figures created by Sir Peter Jackson’s team were some of the most impressive museum pieces I’ve ever seen.

FERRY TO THE SOUTH ISLAND AND COASTAL DRIVE

To continue our journey, we booked a large car and passenger ferry to the South Island. The crossing was rough at first, but as we neared the inland waterways, the sea turned calm and a stunning shade of aqua.

Once ashore, we drove along the eastern coast. It was strange seeing the Pacific on the “wrong” side, coming from the U.S. West Coast.

ARTHUR’S PASS AND A DARK ENCOUNTER WITH GLOW WORMS

We crossed Arthur’s Pass in the Southern Alps to reach the west coast, visiting towns like Hokitika. On our way back over the Alps toward Christchurch, where Lisa would fly home, we stopped at a picturesque campsite.

We’d heard about a small cave-like overhang nearby where you could see glowworms. Armed with phone flashlights, we followed a narrow path through thick brush. We squatted down and turned off our lights to let our eyes adjust. It was pitch black—so dark it swallowed sound.

My knees aren’t made for squatting, and I toppled over with a muffled yelp. Lisa panicked, thinking I’d fallen off a cliff. I managed to squeak out an “I’m ok.” We saw the glowing worms and got out of there fast.

CHRISTCHURCH AND A BITTERSWEET GOODBYE

Christchurch felt more like a large town than a city—quirky and laid back. One highlight: a giant, working Space Invaders game on the sidewalk. It had a massive stick-shift lever and foot controls, with the screen projected onto a building across the street. I lasted longer than expected—turns out all those Pizza Hut arcade sessions in the '80s paid off.

We met up with the college-age daughter of Lisa’s Auckland friend, which gave us a local guide for a few hours. The next day, we dropped the campervan and Lisa flew home. I picked up a rental car and continued solo for another week across the South Island. I opted for hotels, unsure about solo campervan safety—but I needn’t have worried. New Zealand felt incredibly safe.

AORAKI / MOUNT COOK AND STARGAZING UNDER DARK SKIES

I booked a hotel near Mount Cook—Aoraki, as it’s known in Māori, meaning “the cloud piercer.” According to legend, Aoraki was a figure frozen into stone, becoming the highest peaks of the Southern Alps.

I stayed at the Hermitage in Aoraki/Mount Cook National Park with a direct view of the peak. The park is the largest dark sky reserve in the southern hemisphere, so I joined a stargazing tour. Powerful telescopes and expert guides revealed Saturn to the naked eye—and even more stunning through the lens. I took short hikes the next day and a boat tour to get up close to a glacier.

DUNEDIN, MOERAKI BOULDERS, AND TINY PENGUINS

I drove east to the Otago coast and overnighted in Dunedin, based on tips from friends May and Ronnie. I saw tiny penguins—really tiny—waddling from the sea to their burrows. Along the beach, I found the Moeraki Boulders: perfectly round stone formations that looked like they’d been placed by giants.

MILFORD SOUND DETOUR AND A SNOWSTORM SURPRISE

My final destination was Queenstown, with a side trip to Milford Sound. I’d planned to drive there and back, but a freak snowstorm changed everything. I returned to Queenstown, dropped the rental car, and booked a small plane to Milford Sound with a coach ride back.

The flight was breathtaking—we skimmed just above snowcapped peaks the entire way. I sized up my nine fellow passengers for survival skills, just in case. Thankfully, we landed safely.

I took a boat tour through the sound, spotting dolphins, waterfalls, and sunbathing seals. Everyone else flew back, but I stayed two nights. That’s when I learned the only road in and out was blocked by downed trees from the storm. Oops.

STUCK IN MILFORD SOUND: TRIVIA, WINE, AND FAST FRIENDSHIPS

I wasn’t panicked—I’d planned to stay anyway. The first night was in a shared dorm, the second in a riverside cabin. I met two American girls in the dorm and joined their trivia team with two others from a campervan. The hotel’s gathering spaces were lively—everyone was stuck, so we made the best of it.

We won trivia and two bottles of wine. My dorm buddies drove me back to Queenstown the next day once the roads reopened. It was a caravan of over 50 vehicles, all following a parks vehicle clearing the way. Milford Sound was an epic adventure, and I’ll always remember the friendships forged in that unique moment.

SKYDIVING IN QUEENSTOWN: A FINAL ADRENALINE RUSH

Back in Queenstown, I made a spontaneous decision: skydiving. Why not? It’s the adventure capital of New Zealand. I was nervous but didn’t back down. It was a tandem jump, and we were the last out of the plane—dangling 15,000 feet in the air.

I wore thin goggles and a jumpsuit, but nothing prepared me for the cold. I forgot about the GoPro strapped to my instructor and didn’t pose for the camera. Instead, I hooted and woohooed all the way down. The photos? Let’s just say I looked like a duck waiting for bread.

REFLECTIONS AND FAREWELL

Back on solid ground, I was proud of myself—but decided once was enough. I crashed at my hotel and flew home the next day.

New Zealand captured my heart. The landscapes were otherworldly, but it was the people—their laid-back nature and warmth—that left the deepest impression. And yes, the sheep and lambs were adorable. They outnumber people here by a wide margin.

I don’t often return to the same country twice, but I’d come back to New Zealand without hesitation.