Laulupidu in the Rain: Tallinn with a Side of Helsinki

SUMMARY

After wrapping up my campervan adventure around Iceland, I landed in Estonia just in time for Laulupidu—a national song festival held every five years. With my friend Karin performing, I joined her extended crew in Tallinn, soaked up the pride and pageantry, and even squeezed in a quick day trip to Helsinki. Rain, flags, choirs, and community—this one stuck with me.

TALLINN, ROUND TWO

I’d been to Tallinn once before, way back in 2000, but only as a day trip from Helsinki before heading into Russia. I barely remembered it, but since I have a good friend, Karin, whose heritage is Estonian, I knew I’d be back someday. There’s a song festival held every five years (with some exceptions) since 1869 called Laulupidu. I was hoping to attend when she was participating—and this was the year.

THE FESTIVAL BEGINS

The whole country seemed to pour into Tallinn for the festival. Forty-five groups of proud Estonians from around the world, including Karin, flew in for the occasion with their choirs. The majority of the choirs however came from every corner of Estonia and they all combined to fill the air with their voices, many wearing national costumes and colors.

FAMILIAR FACES AND A QUICK ESCAPE

I wasn’t the only one who crossed an ocean to see Karin do her thing—Lisa, Dave, and Maleka made the trek too, along with nearly all of Karin’s immediate and extended family from Seattle and California. While Karin was in rehearsal mode, we snuck off on a quick day trip to Helsinki, where the city rewarded us with blue skies and walkable charm.

HELSINKI HIGHLIGHTS

We learned, among other things, that the Finnish word sauna is widely mispronounced around the world. The correct pronunciation is SAU-na, not SAW-na. We took a walking tour that ended at the library, Oodi—a cultural and community hub rather than just a place for books. It features innovative amenities like 3D printers, sewing machines, and video editing equipment. A true resource for entrepreneurs and learners, and all free.

BACK TO TALLINN

As the festival in Tallinn kicked off with a parade winding its way from the old town to the festival grounds, the raindrops couldn’t dampen the palpable national pride on display. Lisa and I had found umbrellas to keep us dry, but since they weren’t allowed inside the grounds, we had to hunt for rain ponchos the next day. Two euros later, we were set.

A NIGHT TO REMEMBER

It dumped on us just as we arrived for the closing evening of the festival. It was mind-blowing to know that over 30,000 singers were performing—in rotating groups, but all as one for the final songs. There were more than 100,000 spectators, most of them Estonians from across the country. Nearly everyone seemed to be waving a small Estonian flag, dressed in blue, white, and black (the flag’s colors), and singing along with gusto. It was remarkable and memorable.

WRAPPING UP

I needed to get back to work, so I left the next day feeling lucky to have witnessed such a genuine display of pride and community. Now I need to research how to obtain Estonian citizenship...