Balkan Loop: Waterfalls, War Stories, and a Long-Awaited Croatia Visit

FOUR COUNTRIES, TWO WEEKS, ONE LONG-AWAITED CROATIA VISIT

This wasn’t just a trip to Croatia—it was a layered journey through Slovenia, Croatia, Montenegro, and Bosnia-Herzegovina. I built the itinerary around a great flight deal and a generous invite from friends who would be in Dubrovnik, weaving together castles, coastlines, and sobering history. From quiet mornings in Ljubljana to emotional moments in Sarajevo, the Balkans delivered beauty, complexity, and a few surprises I won’t forget.

GETTING THERE: LJUBLJANA TO SARAJEVO

For years I've wanted to visit Croatia. I kept hearing how it was an unspoiled, nature-lover and history buff paradise. I knew I had probably waited too long seeing as it was getting a lot of attention on social media. I still wanted to go, despite it quickly becoming a tourist magnet. I figured it was only going to get more, not less crowded so I better visit soon.

My friends Lisa and Dave were planning on spending several weeks in Dubrovnik working remotely and invited me and anyone else that wanted to visit, a place to stay with them. I jumped at that offer. I figured I'd start by checking out good airline mileage award flights and let that form the backbone of my itinerary. Found a great deal flying business class to Ljubljana, Slovenia via Zurich. To fly home, I found a decent award flight leaving from Sarajevo, Bosnia and Herzegovina. Nothing good going in or out of Croatia. I'd have to make it the middle of my trip.

PLANNING WITH RICK STEVES

I did a bunch of research, starting with my old standby, Rick Steves. I have always appreciated his guidebooks and how he breaks out "must-see" places from "should probably make time for", to "ok to skip" stops. He had a Balkans guidebook that I checked out from the library and poured over to sketch out what I thought I could reasonably fit within a 2-week trip. I would try and spend 4 or so nights in Dubrovnik with my friends but there were so many other places I also wanted to visit. Some hard choices had to be made.

LJUBLJANA AND LAKE BLED

I spent the first 2 nights in a lovely hotel with a balcony and view of the Ljubljana castle. Despite the rain, I went for a walk through the old town and felt like I had the city to myself. It was late May but I hardly saw any tourists. Was it the rain? Being from Seattle I've never let a little rain stop me from doing anything. The hotel had nice big umbrellas in the rooms and I had new waterproof shoes so I was set.

The following day I had booked a full-day tour to Lake Bled. Beautiful area with a castle perched atop a cliff and a church all alone on an island in the middle of the lake. The best way to get to Bled Island is by taking a traditional wooden boat called a pletna. There are two oars that are operated by the boatman who is standing at the aft (back) of the boat. The boats are passed down in only a handful of families and only to the males.

PREDJAMA CASTLE AND ROVINJ

The following day I had made arrangements for a private transfer from Ljubljana to Rovinj, Croatia using Daytrip. They offer door to door service and let you choose scenic stops en route. I really wanted to visit Predjama Castle but couldn't figure out how to make that happen within a reasonable amount of time on public transport. Loved the castle. It was built into a cave and juts out imposingly over a beautiful valley.

Speaking of beautiful. Rovinj, on the Istrian Peninsula at the very north end of Croatia was stunning. The old town had narrow, winding cobbled streets lined with local shops and homes with colorful doors and flowers blooming everywhere.

PLITVICE LAKES NATIONAL PARK

I rented a car the next day so I could drive to the Plitvice Lakes area next. I only learned about this place in Rick Steves' guidebook. I've never seen such a place in all my travels. It's the largest national park in Croatia and is famous for its series of cascading waterfalls and interconnected lakes—about 90 waterfalls in total.

I splurged and stayed overnight in one of only a couple hotels within the park. I wanted to beat the crowds by visiting late in the afternoon as well as early the next morning, after the tour buses left and before they arrived, respectively. The afternoon was still crowded but the morning was heaven. I felt like I had the upper falls mostly to myself for several hours.

SPLIT AND KORCULA

I drove to Split next and dropped the car. Split was lovely and I had great weather. I could have easily spent several days there but only had time for one. I took a ferry from Split to the island of Korcula next. I was meeting Lisa and Dave there and then we'd travel the following day on the ferry to Dubrovnik.

Korcula was a sleepy little picturesque town with narrow cobbled alleyways surrounded by old town walls and turrets. A cool spot we found for an evening cocktail was atop one of these turrets. The bar was called Massimo. It had stunning views and a unique experience as drinks are delivered via a pulley system from the lower level. The only way to the top, outside part of the turret where the cocktail tables were set up was by a very narrow, steep ladder. Ladies, don't wear a skirt or dress if you visit :-)

DUBROVNIK AND A DAY IN MONTENEGRO

The following evening we arrived in Dubrovnik to very hot weather and it was only the end of May! Walking the walls of the old town was sweaty but afforded a sweeping view of the entire city and the Adriatic.

We booked a day trip the following day to Montenegro. Sailing into Kotor bay was beautiful as was the town itself, but it was sooo hot. Cobblestone streets are quaint but in the heat, they get slippery and radiate that heat back up at you. The air-conditioned bus was welcome relief after a full day exploring.

MOSTAR AND SARAJEVO

Soon, too soon, it was time for me to head into Bosnia-Herzegovina and my final destination, Sarajevo. I booked a shared transfer that made several stops along the way for sightseeing. There ended up being only two of us so we were in a private car.

One of the places I knew I had to visit was Mostar and it did not disappoint. Mostar has a tragic recent history, as do many places in the region. I could have easily spent more time here but unfortunately we had to keep heading towards Sarajevo.

SARAJEVO’S HISTORY AND HEARTBREAK

I spent 2 nights in the very heart of the old town, on a pedestrian only square surrounded by mosques and churches. My tour the following day was sobering. Our guide was in her early 20s when the Bosnian war started in 1992. She had heartbreaking personal stories she shared as the war touched every family.

One of the most poignant stops was to the old bobsled track that was used in the 1984 Olympic games. It's covered in colorful graffiti but even the artwork can't disguise the numerous bullet and mortal shell holes. The track was used by the Serbian forces during the war. Nowadays you can walk along its entire length while reflecting on the senseless destruction of war.

FINAL THOUGHTS

I was very glad to have visited Sarajevo. It was a visit that surprised me with the depth of suffering experienced there a mere 35 years ago. The Bosnians I met were lovely and very welcoming to all tourists. They were so happy to have visitors to share their story with.

Like all good trips, this one had to end eventually and I flew home back to Seattle and my job. It was a fabulous 2 weeks traveling through the Balkans. I'd love to visit again to spend more time in certain areas. So many countries to see, so little time.