Balcony Views and Glacier Blues: A Late-Season Alaska Cruise

WHY I KEEP COMING BACK TO CRUISING

This late-season Alaska sailing with Holland America was a mix of familiar comforts and unexpected challenges. I joined Lisa, Dave, and a large group of Dave’s extended family—about 30 of us in total. The trip was booked nearly a year in advance, but a last-minute cabinmate cancellation meant I was cruising solo (and paying for it). Despite the chill, a lingering cold, and a few logistical hiccups, the glacier views, wildlife sightings, and quiet rhythm of unpacking once and waking up somewhere now reminded me why I keep coming back to cruising.

ALASKA CRUISE WITH HOLLAND AMERICA

I just finished my Alaska cruise with Lisa and Dave, and a LOT of Dave's extended family. We booked it almost a year in advance as there was a great deal and only a $1 deposit. What was there to lose? The only problem was that another friend was going to share my cabin with me and she ended up not going. So, I had to pay an 85% solo supplement on Holland America. I get that cruise lines want to be able to book 2 people into a cabin to get twice the cruise fare, but it still stings to have to pay double as a solo traveler. At least this was "only" 85% supplement not 100%.

WHY ALASKA (AGAIN)?

I'd been on an Alaska cruise decades earlier with my mom and sister, but I was super excited for this trip. We were going to be part of a very large group—about 30 people. Dave's cousin was helping to organize it. I knew I wanted a balcony cabin, despite knowing it'd be pretty chilly outside. We were going on the last Alaska roundtrip sailing of the season. Their final voyage was back up to Alaska but then the ship was continuing on to Japan. We were leaving the last week of September and returning the 1st of October. Brrr.

MY FIRST BALCONY CABIN

Now that I think about it, this might have been my first ever balcony cabin on a cruise ship. All the other cruises I've been on were with my mom or my sister, or both. My mom got travel agent rates working for United but you'd typically only be offered inside cabins. Same with my sister. She worked for Holland America and would get a free cruise a year as a benefit and could take 1 person with her. But, it was always an inside cabin. I was the only one that would drop everything to take these cruises so her and I cruised together a LOT.

WHY HOLLAND AMERICA?

It felt nice being back on a Holland America ship. They don't have a lot of kids as there is not much to entertain them. No water slides. No race car track. No laser tag. They have a kids club and activities throughout the voyage but that's about it. Consequently, the demographic skews older and not many kids. I also knew that Holland America was one of the most experienced sailing to Alaska, along with Princess Cruises. It was also fabulous to be able to do a roundtrip from Seattle, where I live. No flying and dealing with excess baggage either!

Cruise Tip: If you’re local to a departure port, consider a roundtrip itinerary. It simplifies everything—from packing to post-cruise recovery.

PORTS AND SEA DAYS

We had a sea day the day following our sail away from Seattle and on the day before arrival back in Seattle. Otherwise we were in a different port each day. I'd forgotten how tiring a port intensive cruise can be! If you're going on any excursions you are often needing to get up early to get onto your coach for your tour. If you're doing your own thing, which we did a couple times, it's more relaxed, but you still want to maximize your time in a port.

JUNEAU

Juneau was our first stop and it was crummy weather. Lisa, Dave, and I just walked off to explore the town. They ended up hiking up to the top of Mount Roberts, at about 1800 ft. I took the gondola. There was a huge line so I was late to meet them. They were a couple beers deep after their tough hike. They met a girl while they were hiking that had just moved to Juneau and she joined us at the bar/restaurant at the top. I had actually started feeling sick the night before so didn't drink with them. I know, right? Besides, I had purchased a drink package for the cruise so it felt wrong to spend money on drinks when I could just get unlimited drinks on board.

HUBBARD GLACIER

Our next port wasn't really a port. It was cruising the Hubbard Glacier. We got really close—closer than I thought we could being a relatively large ship (about 2000 passengers). It was beautiful and we stood outside a long time watching and listening to the glacier calve, or break off and fall into the water.

SITKA

We sailed into Sitka next. We didn't do any paid excursions here; we just took the provided transport into town and wandered around on our own. My back was acting up so I wasn't moving very quickly but we managed to walk around the totem park and up to the raptor center before walking back to the center of town. Huge line to get on the shuttles back to the ship so more standing around. I am not sure how my back held up—I was in serious pain.

KETCHIKAN

Ketchikan was next. I had gotten on board credit to use for an excursion so I used it here. I took a photography tour which was fabulous. We were a very small group and both walked around the town and took a van out to a totem park. Our guide gave us all tips on how to get great photos regardless of your camera. Some had really nice cameras, and most of us had iPhones or Androids. I never really used the long exposure setting on my Android but learned how on this excursion. It makes waterfalls look smooth and ethereal. I had a lot of fun playing around with new settings and capturing scenes using my newfound skills in framing the shots and using perspective to draw the viewers eye to what you want to emphasize.

Cruise Tip: If you’re into photography, look for excursions that teach technique—not just sightseeing. You’ll come home with better photos and new skills.

WILDLIFE AND OPEN WATER

On the way from Ketchikan to Seattle, we were in open water most of the time, having sailed through the inside passage up to Juneau when heading out. I was really hoping to see Orca when we were sailing in the Strait of Juan de Fuca, as that's a regular route for them, but alas no Orca. Lisa and I did see what we think were a couple minke whales earlier and we saw humpback a couple different times. The best was when we were docked in Sitka. There were 2–3 hanging out and feeding just near our ship.

VICTORIA, BC

Thanks to the Passenger Vessel Services Act (PVSA) in effect since 1886, which requires foreign-flagged ships to visit a foreign port during a voyage leaving and returning to a US port, we needed to make a quick port call in Canada. We docked in Victoria BC at 9pm and would be leaving at midnight. I was feeling worse at this point so Lisa and Dave walked into town for a drink and live music while I went to bed early.

Cruise Tip: Late-night port calls like Victoria are often brief and optional. If you’re sick or tired, don’t feel guilty skipping them.

FINAL THOUGHTS

Not sure when we actually arrived back in Seattle as it's a very short sail from Victoria, but we didn't disembark until around 9am the next morning. I loved the trip despite being sick for most of it. I had my NyQuil so I was functional, but exhausted. I was also really careful and was testing for Covid throughout the trip (always negative), washed my hands religiously, and wore a mask when my cough got bad.

Speaking of bugs. I got the cruise bug back. It had been a while since my last cruise and I was hooked again. There's just something so freeing about having to unpack only once and being able to wake up in a new place each day that I really find appealing. It's not for everyone and it's not the way I like to travel all the time, but I do enjoy it and will hopefully do more of it soon.