Autumn Escape: Quebec Charm and Rockies Views Before the Snow

TRIP SNAPSHOT

One spontaneous week, three distinct stops. Montreal was big and bustling, Quebec City delivered charm and walkability, and Banff offered fall colors, wildlife, and quiet drives. A well-timed loop before the snow and crowds rolled in.

TRIP SETUP

I took an impromptu trip to Montreal, Quebec City, and Banff in late September/early October for a week. All that was one trip. Just got a bee in my bonnet and as I'd always wanted to go to those places I just decided to do it. I knew I was cutting it close in terms of the time of year and closures in and around Banff.

The road to Moraine Lake for example always closes mid-October every year, even to public transportation. You can still walk it or bike it, but the closure is both for safety (snow and avalanche danger) and for the peace of the wildlife (mostly bears). The gondola at Sunshine Meadows closed down the end of September but the others were still open. The botanical gardens in Banff, while open, were getting winterized so I didn't manage to see many flowers in bloom. Getting there mid-September instead of early October would have be more optimal, but c'est la vie.

MONTREAL: TOO BIG FOR THIS SOLO TRAVELER

I started by flying from Seattle to Montreal. Honestly, I didn't care for Montreal as I felt it was just too big. Too much concrete and noise; it was a proper city. I felt safe walking around on my own as there were always a lot of people but I'm not really a foodie and was there solo so nightlife and the restaurant scene, which looked to be both vibrant and hopping, just didn't appeal to me. If I were traveling with others it would have been a different story.

QUEBEC CITY: EUROPEAN CHARM AND STEEP STREETS

Conversely, I LOVED Quebec City—it was small and charming. I loved the cobblestoned streets which were so European in feel, the fortifications surrounding the upper part of town, and the quaint, colorful streets and buildings in the lower part of town.

I took the train from Montreal to Quebec City. The station in Montreal was central and easy enough to walk to. The station in Quebec City was a bit outside the main areas of town so I used Uber to get to my hotel. I was staying in a small boutique hotel just across the street from the Chateau Frontenac in the upper part of town. Good thing I didn't try to walk it as it was up hill and I mean UP hill.

I was just steps away from the heart of the upper town—the chateau being the hub where most people were congregating on the old wooden boardwalk just in front. This boardwalk overlooks the lower town and you can take the funicular to get between the upper and lower parts, or you can walk it. I ended up walking it both ways a couple times during my stay as the funicular only took cash (CAD) and I didn't have any on me. Got some exercise and saved some money!

You can take a tour of the Chateau (now a bustling hotel) and the ruins of the old fort/chateau that lies beneath the wooden boardwalk. Both require a ticket and I would recommend purchasing them in advance.

You can wander around (for free) the fort and walls that surround the upper part of town, just about a half mile behind the chateau. That part of town was a mix of some lovely old buildings and much more modern ones. Nice walk though.

CALGARY TO CANMORE: AUDIO-GUIDED ROAD TRIP

After Quebec City I took the train back to Montreal for another overnight, then flew to Calgary where I rented a car. I had purchased and downloaded to my phone an audio driving guide called Guide Along. It tracks you with GPS and will start to play once you cross one of the markers on the route. The narrator was hilarious and very engaging.

I thought I'd have to juggle between this audio guide and my Google Maps, but the audio guide negated any need for Google Maps. The guide would give you a heads up as to what was on your right, your left, what was coming up that you might want to stop at, the time it might take you if you did want to stop and explore, etc. It gave great directions for turn offs and where to park as well. Just don't speed as you don't want to get ahead of the narration and you also don't want to get surprised by wildlife or conversely, miss spotting wildlife.

CANMORE BASE CAMP AND THE ICEFIELDS PARKWAY

I was staying in Canmore, not Banff. Banff was more expensive and even in early October, was more crowded than I preferred. Canmore was only about a 20 min drive south of Banff and was quiet and lovely. It's in a valley surrounded by mountains all around. Amazing place for both sunrise and sunset pictures.

I base camped at Canmore but would go out driving using my audio guide each day. I drove the Icefields Parkway which was spectacular. Made several stops for short hikes and overlooks, like Morant's Curve and Johnston Canyon. I stopped short of going all the way to Jasper as it was already a long day of driving and the wildfires had badly affected Jasper so I skipped it and turned around at Columbia Glacier.

LAKES, WILDLIFE, AND FALL COLORS

In the next couple days I also went to Peyto Lake, Lake Lorraine, and Moraine Lake. Didn't do any major hiking anywhere and was a little bummed about that but my back wouldn't have allowed it, plus it had started snowing in the mountains so winter was on its way. Didn't see any northern lights as it was too cloudy at night. Still had amazing sunsets and sunrises though.

Didn't see any bears but did see a lot of elk and a couple mountain goats. After driving back to Calgary, I flew home to Seattle. I'm so glad I took this trip. The fall colors were gorgeous and I appreciated having fewer crowds. It would be interesting to revisit in summer, but that would entail booking much further in advance and being prepared for hot weather, higher prices, and bigger crowds.